1pm // Konditori
Lunch comes in a very fancy box today
Time to get back to the 1st Arrondissement where we were earlier. The walk is almost the same as this morning when we walked to the city center from Hotel Okko. Just walk towards the river Rhône, cross the Pont Morand, and walk past the town hall up the hill. After looking at so much great food in the past hour, it’s finally time for lunch.
Konditori is a small batch bakery that specialises in take-away lunch boxes and pastry. It was probably one of their sweet treats you had for breakfast at La Boite à Café this morning. For lunch, they offer different lunch boxes every day, filled with fresh, tasty meals for both meat eaters and vegetarians, think sandwiches, foccacias, tartes and salads. Have your pick from today’s selection, maybe also get a cookie to go (they also make gluten-free ones, if that’s your jam) and a drink, and head out of the small store and back down the hill in the direction of the town hall.
Konditori // 9 Rue des Capucins // Mon-Fri 11.30am-2pm // website
1.30pm // Courtyard of the Museum of Fine Arts
Eating lunch, surrounded by statues
The Musée des Beaux-Arts de Lyon, the Museum of Fine Arts, is one of Europe’s largest art museum, displaying works from ancient Egypt up to modern art. It is housed in a spectacular building from the 17th century.
While we won’t have time to walk through the more than 70 rooms today, we still get to soak up some of the atmosphere. The beautiful courtyard of the former Benedictine convent is the perfect place to have lunch. Antiques statues line the space, and although we’re in the heart of the city, it is calm and quiet here. Wander around a bit and then sit down on one of the benches and enjoy your lunch box.
Museum of Fine Arts // 20 Place des Terreaux // website
2pm // Village des Createurs
Lyon’s creative scene showcases its many talents
Lyon has an efficient public transport system that includes a Metro, trams, busses and funiculars. Buy your tickets at the machines before boarding and from the bus drivers.
WHAT TO ORDER
Food: If you can stomach it, try some of the local sausages and quenelles, little dumplings.
Drinks: Wine! It doesn’t get better than here.
A bottle of wine.
An edition of Saint-Exuspéry’s Little Prince in your language.
Walk back once again past the cafe to the Passage Thiaffait, where you’ll find the Village des Createurs. The goal of this project is to promote local creatives from the Rhône-Alpes region, so you’ll be able to discover lots of young labels that produce fashion, jewelry and prints.
Every brand has their own little workspace and shop. Among our favorites were fashion brand Cae that works a lot with denim, Poisson Bulle that sells beautiful paper products and the Pola Café, where you can buy Polaroid cameras, films, and play a round of Mario Kart on the old Nintendo NES.
Village des Createures // Mon-Thu 9am-6pm, Fri 9am-3.30pm, opening hours may vary, check website and Facebook page // Passage Thiaffait, 19 rue René Leynaud // website
2.15pm // Galerie La Réverbère
300 square meters of great photography
The area around Croix-Rouges is the creative heart of Lyon. It is here that you’ll find the most galleries, studios, and creative agencies. This tradition of creative output here goes back to the 16th century, when Lyon was the capital of the European silk trade. Back then, these streets were where the workshops of the fabric makers were. Little passageways called Traboules connected buildings and courtyards, and to this day, you can still find them behind small doors in the wall. Today, the walls around Croix-Rouges are full of street art.
Let’s visit the Galerie La Réverbère. It showcases contemporary photography, and owners Catherine Dérioz and Jacques Damez have a keen eye for established artists and newcomers alike.
Galerie La Réverbère // 38 Rue Burdeau // Wed-Sat 2pm-7pm & by appointment // website
2.45pm // Montée de la Grande Côte
A stroll down one of Lyon’s loveliest streets
Walk back, then turn to your right and walk up the tall steps of Rue Pouteau. You could continue all the way up to the Jardin de la Grande Côte, a beautiful park at the hilltop, but for the sake of this 12hrs tour, it’s enough to turn left on the Rue Imbert Colomes. The next street on the left is the Montée de la Grande Côte.
This steep street showcases the quarter at its best. It is lined with small, independent stores, and the facades are painted in radiant tones of yellows and reds. Stroll down this beautiful road towards the city center.
On your way, make sure to visit Cinitic, a small menswear shop with a lovingly curated selection of hip street wear brands like Wood Wood, Billionaire Boys Club and Garbstore.
Opposite Cinitic you’ll find La Fabriq where you can buy handmade jewelry, cool prints and paper products.
3pm // Market Place
Shopping for vintage lovers
A bit down the street, turn left into the Rue des Capucins again. Market Place is a rather big vintage store that sells used clothes and accessories for women and men. Go here if you are looking for quirky souvenirs, pre-loved handbags or a nicely worn-in leather jacket.
Market Place // 1 Rue des Capucins // Tue-Sat 11am-7pm // Facebook
3.10pm // Make Noise
Streetwear for fashionable skaters
Just on the other side of the road lies Make Noise, another skate and streetwear shop that is worth a visit. The focus here lies more on heritage brands, so you’ll find lots of denim, plaids and outerwear. They also sell a wide selection of Herschel bags and caps.
After Make Noise, let’s make our way to the more commercial shopping streets of Lyon for the final stretch of our day.
Make Noise // 4 Rue des Capucins // Mon-Sat 11am-7.30pm // website
4PM // Summer Store
The best concept store in town
Walk back and take the Metro line A from Hôtel de Ville to Bellecour. Bellecour is the largest pedestrian square in Europe, a UNESCO heritage site and truly impressive. Surrounded by historic buildings, it leads to the three major shopping streets of Lyon. In winter, a large ferris wheel is installed here, and there’s a statue of Louis XIV and Antoine de Saint-Exupéry, another famous son of the city.
The Rue Victor Hugo is one of the three streets lined with mostly high street shops. Walk down there for a while until you reach Rue Saint-Hélène. Turn left there to get to our next destination.
Our favorite shop in the shopping streets around Bellecour is the Summer Store. Again, this one is for the guys only – Lyon seems to have a thing for cool menswear – but it’s still worth a visit if you’re a female. You never know, you might find something for yourself.
Of all the shops we visited, this is the fanciest, carrying great, cutting edge brands like Jack Purcell, Comme des Garçons Play, Visvim and Y3. They also sell a great selection of sneakers and shoes.
To get to our final stop before dinner, we’ll need to take the Metro again. Find the Ampère - Victor Hugo station and take the A for one stop to Perrache. There, change into the tram T1 and take it all the way to the stop Musée des Confluences.
Summer Store // 1 Place Gailleton // Tue-Sat 10.30am-7pm // website
4.45pm // Musée des Confluences
A new architectural gem in Lyon, and one of the most interesting museums
DRESSING THE PART
The Lyonnaise aren’t fancy dressers. Put on whatever you like and wear comfortable shoes, you’ll walk over a lot of cobblestones. Like everywhere else in France, when it comes to clothes, quality is key.
The original films by the Lumière brothers
A Question of Taste
Confluence is a booming, newly developed city part of Lyon, sandwiched between the Rhône and the Saône at the very tip of the city center. It features stunning modern architecture with a big emphasis on green construction, fancy new apartments at the water and a giant mall and shopping center. The star of the whole ensemble, though, is the brand new Musée des Confluences that we will visit now.
The building by Austrian architecture firm Coop Himmelb(l)au is the star here, and also the main reason why this impressive endeavor in city development took much longer (and was much more expensive) than anticipated. But that is all forgotten now that the museum opened its doors. Meant to represent a floating crystal cloud, it seems to hover over the tip of the peninsula. It’s a science center and anthropology museum that showcases scientific human achievements of the last centuries. There are three permanent as well as six temporary exhibitions on display. If you traveled to Lyon by Eurostar, show your train ticket at the ticket counter and you’ll get an extra ticket for a friend for free. Have fun exploring!
Musée des Confluences // 86 Quai Perrache // Tue/Wed & Fri 11am-7pm, Thu 11am-10pm, Sat/Sun 1oam-7pm // Admission: 9 Euro // website
8pm // 23 Restaurant Caviste Bio
Light and local dishes for dinner
What better way to close out a long, eventful day in Lyon than with a nice dinner. For that, we are heading back to the 1st Arrondissement. Get there by public transport (taking the route way we took to get to Confluences) or take a taxi.
For dinner today, we visit 23 Restaurant Caviste Bio. As mentioned above, Lyon is famous for its typical, rather heavy French food. This restaurant is the exact opposite of that. Focussing on seasonal, local ingredients, Caviste Bio offers a small new menu daily. Each of three courses on offer has three options for you to choose from and put your own menu together. But your best bet is to order the Menu Carte Blanche au Chef, that puts the choice in the chef’s hand and lets him choose what’s best today. This menu is not expensive at all, setting you back only 36 Euro (approx. 40 USD) for four courses including dessert or 40 Euro including dessert and a cheese course.
Another great thing about 23 Restaurant Caviste Bio is the large selection of truly great organic wines that are on display on the shelves in the restaurant. Just ask your waiter for a recommendation or pick a bottle yourself, and you get the bottle for the retail price and a small corkage fee. Santé! You just spent 12hrs in Lyon!
23 Restaurant Caviste Bio // 23 Rue René Leynaud // Mon 7pm-10 pm, Tue-Sat 12pm-2pm & 7pm-10pm // website
Made in cooperation with Eurostar.
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