3pm - Murkudis
For the next item on our itinerary, we are leaving Kreuzberg and head straight into Schöneberg and Mitte. This is a whole different part of Berlin. In Mitte, you’ll find the big tourist attractions, lots of hip stores and the whole ‘Neue Mitte’ crowd and their start-ups. Mitte is a destination for another 12hrs in Berlin guide, so today, we’ll just focus on two very specific locations here. Schöneberg, on the other hand, is quite the up and coming area of Berlin, still developing and finding its shape. Let’s go there first.
First off, Herbert sends us to Andreas Murkudis. This is another concept store, but a whole different experience than the one we just had at Voo. Everything is very, very expensive. But that also means that you’ll rarely find quality like this anywhere else, so have a look around, ignore the price tags, and instead admire all the work that went into the garments and objects on sale here. Don’t forget to look around the building, too. The interior itself is a piece of art. Andreas Murkudis is housed in a building formerly occupied by the newspaper Tagesspiegel and its printing presses and paper stock.
However, if you were planning on going crazy with your credit card and indulge in some serious shopping, now is the time to get that Céline or Givenchy piece you always dreamed about.
Andreas Murkudis // Potsdamer Str. 81E // Mon-Sat 10am-8pm // website
4pm // Boros Bunker
Walk back to the subway stop Kurfürstenstraße, take the U2 to Potsdamer Platz and switch to an S train there that takes you to Friedrichstraße (S1 and S26). From there, it’s a very short walk to Boros Bunker.
This bunker has a very interesting backstory, one of the reasons Herbert sends us there. It was built in 1942 as a bunker for the inhabitants of Berlin during World War II, occupied by the Red Army afterwards and used as a prison for prisoners of war, and then used for keeping fabrics inside. Starting in 1957, the government of the DDR used it to store tropical fruits from fellow communist country Cuba. This is where the Bunker got its name: Bananenbunker (Banana bunker). After the fall of the Berlin wall, the building belonged to the federal government. Crazy Techno parties started to take place, earning the place a reputation as the ‘hardest club in the world’.
In 2003, Christian Boros decided to buy the bunker and to use it to display his vast modern art collection there. He’s living on the top floor of the building in a breathtaking private penthouse, but the bunker itself and his amazing collection is available to the public.
You’ll see works by Ai Weiwei, Olafur Eliasson, Marieta Chirulescu and many others, all mixed together with the great history of the place that is still visible in every corner.
It’s not a museum, so you need to register on the website and make a reservation to join a tour. It’s super easy, though, and well worth the two minutes it takes to reserve a spot. Book as early as you can, since there are always only 12 people allowed inside at once, and thus tours book out very quickly.
These guided tours take place every day from Thursday to Sunday, the ones at the top of the hour are in German, the ones on the half of the hour in English. Admission fee is 10 Euro.
Looking at art can be exhausting. After the one and a half hour tour, let’s go to our hotel and relax a bit!
Sammlung Boros // Reinhardtstr. 20 // guided tours by appointment only // website
Pictures (4): Noshe
6pm // Michelberger Hotel
When Herbert is asked for a hotel recommendation by visitors from out of town, he always sends people to Michelberger Hotel. This hotel at Warschauer Straße was opened by a group of friends around Nadine and Tom Michelberger. Herbert promises that is has the coziest lobby he has ever seen – basically a huge living room full of beautiful furniture and friendly faces.
Every once in a while, you’ll spot a famous face here. Because even though the rooms aren’t expensive at all (starting around 80 Euro per night), this place is popular with musicians and VIPs. They even have a ‘Band Room’ with four single beds.
Take a break here, maybe a shower or a change of clothes, before we head out into the Berlin night. When you’re ready, take the U1 again from Warschauer Straße back to Kottbusser Tor. From there, walk to Maybachufer where we started our 12hrs tour. On the other side of the water is Silberlöffel, where we’ll have dinner today.
Michelberger Hotel // Warschauer Str. 39-40 // website
Pictures: Michelberger Hotel
8pm // Silberlöffel
This restaurant is a secret favorite of Herbert’s. He loves to bring friends here, and it’s easy to see why. The focus is all on the food, leaving the interior simple and friendly. After a day full of design, art, and walking around, this makes you relaxed almost immediately.
The owners serve a tasty mix of German and Austrian cuisine, and Herbert, being the Tyrolean that he is, swears by their (heavy, but delicious) Käsepätzle. Again, there are always several vegetarian options on the menu.
Silberlöffel is still quite underrated, which is good for us. The chances to get a table here are very high, even without reservations.
Silberlöffel // Maybachufer 21 // 9am-Midnight // website
10pm // Going out
Done with dinner? Then it’s time for the last leg of our 12hrs in Berlin. As is the case with most Berliners, Herbert has a bunch of tips for going out. Here are his recommendations:
Luzia: This bar and café is owned by the same folks that opened Voo, so naturally, it’s beautiful. A great open space with cozy second hand furniture that attracts a very mixed crowd. Perfect for pre-dancing drinks!
Möbel Olfe: A great gay and lesbian bar right under the huge Kreuzberg center, a famously ugly high-rise you have seen several times today.
Paloma Bar: Super close to Möbel Olfe and with a great view over the subway stop Kottbusser Tor. It’s a bit tricky to find, but once you know that it’s located right above the local supermarket (‘Kaiser’s), you’ll be fine.
Panorama Bar: Still haven’t had enough even though by now, we should be well over our 12hrs timeframe? Well, there is always Berlin’s famous party monolith, Berghain. In it, Panorama Bar attracts the cool, music loving crowd. But beware: The door guys are as strict as everybody says!
Luzia// Oranienstr. 34 // see website for opening hours and events // website
Möbel Olfe // Reichenberger Str. 177 // see website for opening hours and events // website
Paloma Bar // Skalitzer Str. 135 // see Facebook page for opening hours and events // website
Berghain Panorama Bar // Am Wriezener Bahnhof //see website for opening hours and events // website
Pictures (2): Luzia
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